Wagashi, traditional Japanese sweets, have been nurtured alongside Japan’s changing seasons and cultural events. Their history dates back to the Asuka period and has evolved through influences from tea ceremonies and Edo-era merchant culture. This article delves into the origins and evolution of wagashi, highlighting their role in Japanese culture and the visual beauty that makes them irresistible. Discover the rich world of wagashi and gain a deeper appreciation for Japan’s culinary heritage.
1. What is Wagashi? The Origins of Japanese Sweets
Originally, the term “kashi” referred to fruits and nuts. Historical records from the Nara period indicate the presence of shops selling such “kashi” in government markets. These included fruits like yamamomo (Chinese bayberry) and primitive forms of mandarins.
A famous legend tells of Tajimamori, who, under the orders of Emperor Suinin, brought back “tokijiku no kagu no mi,” an eternal fruit from the mythical land of Tokoyo. This fruit is believed to be the tachibana, a type of citrus, and Tajimamori is enshrined as the deity of sweets at Nakajima Shrine in Hyogo Prefecture.
Apart from fruits, another root of wagashi lies in grain-based foods like mochi (rice cakes) and dango (sweet dumplings). As rice cultivation began in the late Jomon period, methods for preserving grains, such as pounding and shaping them, naturally developed.
People learned to preserve food by sun-drying nuts and grinding them into powder using stone mills. Despite the advent of agriculture, food scarcity meant that acorns from oak and beech trees were valuable. However, these acorns contained bitter tannins and required soaking and cooking to become edible. This method of processing acorns into edible dumplings is considered the origin of today’s dango.
The development of this food culture eventually led to the creation of mochi, Japan’s oldest processed food. Documents from 934 AD refer to mochi as “mochii” or “mochi-meshi.” Rice, the primary ingredient for mochi, was a precious commodity, making mochi a sacred food, as evidenced in ancient texts like the “Bungo Fudoki.”
2. From the Nara to Heian Periods: The Introduction of Tang Sweets and Birth of Unique Japanese Confections
The Nara period marked a significant shift in Japanese confectionery. The arrival of the Kentoshi (Japanese envoys to China) between 630 and 894 AD introduced “tōkashi” (Tang sweets) to Japan.
These Tang sweets had unique names and forms, such as Baishi (plum branch), Tōshi (peach), Kakko, Keishin, Tensei, Hichira, Tsuishi, and Danki. Made from rice, wheat, soybeans, and azuki beans, they were shaped and often deep-fried. Besides being food, these sweets served as sacred offerings in religious ceremonies.
The methods and flavors introduced by the Kentoshi significantly influenced the development of Japanese wagashi, with traces still visible in modern confections. Tang sweets involved complex preparations like steaming, baking, boiling, and frying, contrasting with the simple, natural forms of mochi and dango prevalent in Japan at the time.
Today, remnants of Tang sweets can still be found as offerings in certain temples and shrines. Confections like “Seijo Kankidan” from Kameya Kiyoyasu in Kyoto and “Buto Manju” from Manmando Tsunenori in Nara trace their origins to these ancient sweets.
During this period, Japan also developed unique confections. Since domestic sugar production had not yet begun, imported sugar was rare and considered medicinal. Sweeteners like “amazura,” a sap from wild vines, were used instead. The “Makura no Sōshi” (The Pillow Book) mentions shaved ice with amazura, resembling modern kakigōri (shaved ice desserts).
『源氏物語図』（京都国立博物館所蔵）
Confections like “Tsubaki-mochi,” often cited as Japan’s first wagashi, were sweetened with amazura. While similar to modern versions, historical tsubaki-mochi likely lacked fillings, indicating an early distinction between Tang sweets and uniquely Japanese wagashi.
3. From the Kamakura to Muromachi Periods: The Influence of Tea Ceremony on Wagashi
In the Kamakura period, Zen Buddhism introduced “dim sum” (light meals) from China, influencing Japanese sweets. These light meals included buns, noodles, and soups known as “atsumono,” which encompassed dishes like yokan.
Originally a lamb soup, yokan was adapted for vegetarian monks by substituting wheat or kudzu flour to mimic the texture of meat. This innovation eventually led to the creation of “mushi-yokan” (steamed yokan), the precursor to today’s yokan.
The spread of tea culture by Eisai also played a vital role in the development of wagashi. Fruits, nuts, and dim sum were served alongside tea as “chanoko” (tea accompaniments). In the Muromachi period, light meals like yokan, senbei (rice crackers), and funoyaki became integral to tea ceremonies, laying the foundation for Japan’s unique wagashi culture.
4. Azuchi-Momoyama Period: The Arrival of Nanban Sweets
狩野孝信筆『唐船・南蛮船図屏風』（九州国立博物館所蔵）
The Azuchi-Momoyama period saw the introduction of “Nanban-gashi” (Western sweets) through trade with Portugal and Spain. Unlike the mildly sweet traditional Japanese confections, Nanban sweets were rich in sugar, captivating the Japanese palate.
Egg-based confections like castella (sponge cake) also influenced Japanese cuisine, as eggs were rarely consumed due to religious beliefs. Other imported sweets included caramel, bolo, and konpeitō (sugar candy), which, though foreign in origin, are now considered traditional wagashi.
These Nanban sweets were often presented as gifts to feudal lords for the promotion of Christianity, making them rare delicacies for the elite.
5. Edo Period: The Flourishing of Wagashi Culture in Edo
The Edo period’s peace and economic growth led to increased sugar imports and the rise of specialized confectionery shops. While political power shifted to Edo (modern-day Tokyo), Kyoto remained the center of wagashi culture.
Kyoto produced sophisticated “jō-gashi” (high-grade sweets) using expensive white and rock sugar, setting the standard for today’s “jō-namagashi” (premium fresh confections). These sweets became more refined, incorporating literary themes and seasonal motifs.
However, such luxurious confections were reserved for the upper class. Commoners enjoyed simpler treats like mochi and dango, often sweetened with brown sugar.
A significant turning point came when Shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune encouraged domestic sugar cane cultivation and refining, making sugar more accessible. By the late 18th century, wagashi had reached new heights of development, with Edo’s confectionery culture flourishing alongside Kyoto’s.
6. Meiji Period and Beyond: The Introduction of Western Sweets
With the Meiji Restoration and the influx of Western culture, Western sweets were introduced to Japan. However, due to their high cost and the unfamiliarity of ingredients like butter and milk, they remained a luxury for the elite.
Despite the advent of Western confections, wagashi retained its cultural significance. However, during World War II, sugar rationing led to the decline of many wagashi shops. The industry revived post-1952 when sugar controls were lifted.
By the 1950s, mechanization enabled mass production of both wagashi and Western sweets. While Western confections gained popularity, wagashi adapted by incorporating ingredients like cream and butter, leading to hybrid creations like matcha bavarois and pie manju.
In recent years, health-conscious consumers have turned to wagashi for its plant-based ingredients and lower calorie content, revitalizing its appeal.
Rediscover the Rich History of Wagashi
Wagashi, once a luxury for the elite, is now a beloved part of everyday life in Japan. Understanding its history reveals how deeply intertwined wagashi is with Japan’s cultural and culinary heritage. Despite the influence of Western confections, the craftsmanship and tradition of wagashi continue to thrive, offering a taste of Japan’s rich history with every bite.
For those interested in learning more, numerous books delve deeper into the fascinating world of wagashi.
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